Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Seventies Diary Sokoto Days

Extracts from an expat's diary in 1970s Sokoto

by Dee Murray

Sokoto Knot arewa knot Seventies Diary Sokoto Days

 The Sokoto Knot, also known as the Northern Knot or Arewa Knot, appliqued here on Sokoto leatherwork

Dee Murray 1970s Sokoto 1978 Seventies Diary Sokoto Days

Haboob approaching

1970s Sokoto the Murrays Seventies Diary Sokoto Days

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Sokoto Hotel, 1970s Sokoto, January 1978 Dee Murray

At the Sokoto Hotel January 1978, when we first arrived. 

Our bungalow on the college compound, Sokoto.


Kware Lake, 1970s Sokoto Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Kware Lake, near Sokoto


Fulani cattle herd, Sokoto State, 1978
Fulani cattle herd (Zebu, White Fulani) behind our bungalow at ATC compound, Sokoto, 1978


Argungu Fishing Festival 1979 19 Seventies Diary Sokoto Days70s Sokoto
Argungu Fishing Festival, Kebbi, 3 March 1979




1970s map Sokoto 1974
1974 map of Sokoto. SCAS (State College of Arts and Science) location in 1978 shown top right. The Sokoto Hotel can be seen near the centre of the map.
Sokoto map 1970s Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Map of Sokoto, undated, probably early 1970s. The old airport\is shown at a different location compared to the current International airport, which was completed in 1983.


In the beginning -    In late September 1977 my husband (S) went for an interview held in London by the State College of Arts and Science (SCAS), a Northern Nigerian College recruiting lecturers for tours of duty of up to three years. At the time I was still in hospital after the birth of our first daughter, and the reality didn’t begin to dawn until visiting time the day after the interview, when we discussed what such a move overseas would involve. The job was to start at the beginning of January, a little over three months away.

 October 1977 found us trying to deal with selling our house, packing up our possessions in crates to send ahead of us, as well as coping with a demanding young baby. What should we pack? What supplies would we need to stock up on?  What sort of things would be unobtainable over there? I had three main sources of advice. The college gave us some information about the cost of living and local conditions, and housing (we would be provided with a bungalow to rent that would have basic hard furnishings. Secondly my mother compiled a long list of hints and tips that she entitled “Notes by a Globe-trotting Grandmother”, based on her own experiences. Thirdly I contacted the Women’s Corona Society who sent me various useful leaflets on the health and care of babies and young children in the Tropics. They also sent me the name and address of a contact member - although several hundred miles from where we were going, at least she was in the same country!


 We had an airfreight allowance, which meant everything we packed in the crates had to be weighed. Any excess we had to pay for ourselves. It struck as rather unfair that we had no baggage allowance on the plane for the baby, yet so much of the paraphernalia we were taking was hers!  Our local chemist kindly recommended some medical items so we could make up a first-aid kit to take with us. We also had to buy at least 18 months supply of anti-malaria tablets and some special syrup for the baby, to be taken from the age of six months. All the immunisations had to be up to date, and we had to go to a special ‘Yellow Fever Centre’ some miles away. Fortunately she was exempt from all the nastier injections until she was a year old!


 We were gradually getting ourselves organised. We had been asked to send details of our flight and arrival time by the college so they could arrange to meet us and have a house ready. The telegram was duly dispatched in early December. We were unaware then that it was not destined to arrive!


 Christmas 1977 was spent with my family, then we drove to the South coast to stay with S’s family over the New Year. One of my Christmas presents was a Five Year Diary, which I began on 1 January 1978, and from which these extracts are taken. We were driven to Heathrow Airport on a cold and dismal January evening. The first part of the journey went smoothly.  At Kano we had to make a connection onto a smaller plane, and had quite a while to wait after we had sorted out immigration procedures. There was nowhere to feed or change babies, so I sat on a crowded airport bench and fed her there. No-one took much notice except a group of women who seemed amazed and delighted that I, a ‘bature’ woman, was actually feeding my baby myself. Whether they were surprised that I was capable, or whether they thought that being European I should be able to afford to buy dried milk, I shall never know.


 We eventually got onto our second flight, now all feeling a bit the worse for wear. The dry and blisteringly bright heat was quite a contrast to the cold, damp and grey January day we had left behind. Our daughter was feeling the heat and the disturbance to her routine, and let us know in no uncertain terms! So it was with a red-faced and screaming baby that we eventually set foot in the place that was to be our home for the next two and a half years.


 Looking round the small Sokoto Airport arrivals area we could see no-one who appeared to be looking for us. Gradually the crowd dispersed and we sat down, feeling dazed and disorientated. A woman introduced herself to us, saying she thought we looked rather lost. We explained that we had expected to be met by a representative of the college. By a stroke of good luck, she knew the vice-principal, and offered to drive us to his house. Here we discovered that our telegram had never arrived and that we were not expected for at least another couple of weeks! Everyone rallied round and were very helpful, and before we knew it we were booked into the local hotel. We spent a week or so there while a house was sorted out for us.


 Our bungalow was on another college compound a couple of miles south out of town (Advanced Teachers College) - a one-storey building with thick whitewashed walls to insulate against the heat, stone floors and ceiling fans in every room. We had arrived in the middle of the dry season, and it was to get progressively hotter and hotter until April or May when the first rains would bring welcome relief. There would be a hot and humid summer, with the rains becoming less and less frequent until they ceased by September, not to come again until the following year. The house was new and had no trees or plants in the garden - it all looked very bare and arid. One of the first things we did was to go to the Government Nursery and collect one hundred young trees to plant round the house, these were free of charge. We also bought a long hose-pipe and spent many hours painstakingly watering each tree until the rains started and took over the job for us.


1974 map of Sokoto 1970s Seventies Diary Sokoto Days

The Diary extracts

January1978 - July1980
Sokoto Hotel January 1978. 1970s Sokoto
At the Sokoto Hotel, when we first arrived.



Sokoto Hotel, January 1978. 1970s Sokoto





Picnic at Kware Lake, near Sokoto, 1978 Seventies Diary Sokoto Days
Picnic at Kware Lake, near Sokoto, 20 February 1978 with the Davis family and the Gemmels. 


SCAS bus sokoto 1970s
College bus- the State College of Arts and Science (SCAS), Sokoto.



A chameleon near the roadside, near Sokoto

A chameleon near the roadside, near Sokoto.


Dee Murray Weekly Guardian, News, Sokoto March 1978. 1970s Sokoto
Catching up on the news, March 1978. 





Kware Lake, near Sokoto
A punt ride on Kware Lake, near Sokoto, 10 February 1978.




Illel, Sokoto State, camel riding
Camel riding at Illela, north of Sokoto on the border with Niger, 26 March 1978.




Sokoto, cattle, goats and Fulani herdsmen
Typical roadside scene near Sokoto with cattle, goats and Fulani herdsmen.


Tennis court at ATC Sokoto May 1978
On the tennis court on the ATC compound, May 1978.
chameleon at Sokoto
We used to see chameleons quite often.


Kware Lake near Sokoto June 1978
Kware Lake, near Sokoto June 1978.



weaver bird nests, Sokoto
Weaver bird nests, Sokoto 1978


Niger River Pont Kennedy Niamey bridge July 1978
Man in the Niger River in Niamey, taken on a trip to Niger  from the Pont Kennedy, Niamey, 20 July 1978.


Craftsman, artisan at work, Niamey, Niger, July 1978
Craftsman at work, Niamey, Niger, July 1978.


riving back from Niamey, Niger, in convoy 23 July 1978 (3 VW Beetles).
Driving back from Niamey, Niger, in convoy 23 July 1978 (3 VW Beetles). 



Riding in Sokoto, 31 July 1978


Riding, 12 August 1978


Sokoto Salah, 11 November 1978
Sokoto Salah, 11 November 1978
Sokoto Salah, 11 November 1978
Sokoto Salah, 11 November 1978
Sokoto Salah, 11 November 1978


In Niamey, Niger, 3 December 1978


ATC Staff pantomime, Cinderella, 16 December 1978


Christmas Day 1978 Sokoto
Christmas Day 1978, Sokoto
Christmas Day 1978, Sokoto




Guitar sessions in our back courtyard in early 1979 - 'S&D's Acoustic Circus'






Sequence shown below- the start of the Argungu Fishing Festival, Sokoto State, 3 March 1979. 

The fishermen appeared to come from nowhere, and charged over the bank and into the river. 

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7. Soon the river was full of fishermen!
Argungu Fishing Festival, Sokoto State, 3 March 1979
Argungu Fishing Festival, Sokoto State, 3 March 1979

January 1978 to March 1979

 5th January 1978   Did some last minute shopping in Brighton, got sandals and two tops, Sold the car to the first man in the end. Left for Heathrow at 5.30pm. S's parents took us to the airport, the plane was delayed until 12.15am, a jumbo jet, Had a drink in the airport lounge. 6th January 1978   Touched down in Rome at 3am and picked up a lot more passengers. Arrived at Kano airport at 8am, rather traumatic! Flight for Sokoto delayed. Poor E was tired and felt the heat. We were not met as our telegram hadn't arrived. Ju from ATC (Advanced Teachers College) spotted us and took us to Vice-principal Mr B's bungalow. - we were given drinks and a good meal. The Principal Mr Haque came round and booked us in to the Sokoto Hotel- air conditioning and colour TV in every room. 7th January 1978   Day spent recovering at the hotel! Met the Davis  family, also just arrived, he will be lecturing in history at SCAS. E slept for 12 hours last night. Nice to get into some summer dresses. Pleasant garden to sit out in, more greenery than expected. Meals not too bad, plenty of omelettes, tomato and onion salad. 8th January 1978   Another relaxing day. Tried E in the pushchair. Saw Ju again. Quite a cool breeze and sat outside this afternoon. Man came round from Mandilas with brochures for a car- Beetle, Igala or Passat. Mr H has arranged for some cars to be ready for SCAS staff, no long waiting period. 9th January 1978   College driver (Adu) took us to the bungalow, but it was locked. Turned out to be the wrong one. It’s on the Advanced Teachers College (ATC) campus. S made notes. Still no beer at the hotel (except for Guinness at N1 (1 naira) a bottle. The Ds moved into their bungalow. 10th January 1978   Went to look round our bungalow- a watchman is guarding it. Then went shopping for basic provisions in the college car. Went to Tradev and the Co-op. Beggars outside the shops. The shops sell baby foods. Have two bathrooms. Beer now available at then hotel, had 2 pints, it went to our heads! Star and Gulder are the main types. 11th January 1978   Went to the house again with a truck-load of labourers to shift furniture and clean the floor. It was built in June 1977. Ju (next door) gave us breakfast. We now need a gas cylinder for the cooker and a mattress. S’s first lecture. He went to arrange car insurance. Ran out of beer again! 12th January 1978   S went off to teach at 11am. I had a quiet day at the hotel. S went to the house, now there are 2 gas cylinders and 4 beds, but the car is not yet ready due to an electrical fault.  They’ve now got Gulder beer in stock at the hotel! Bought an out-of-date Sunday Times for N1.30! 13th January 1978   Went to look at the house again in the D’s car, then back to theirs for a coffee. Our car (a blue VW Beetle) was delivered at 5.30pm working well. I daren’t drive it yet as it is left-hand-drive. C set off for Kano hoping to collect  our and some others’ freight', with Adu in a truck. 14th January 1978   The Great Move! I got toothache and went to the dentist at the hospital with a letter from Mr Haque. Seen at once- an impounded decayed wisdom tooth. Sedative inserted, prescription and to return on Monday. The Ds helped us move into our house. We called on Ju, she gave us some eggs. Met some others. A steward (Hassan) came to offer his services. 15th January 1978   Spent a quiet day cleaning the bungalow. Big rooms, fans, mosquito nets provided. Tooth feels okay now. E has been rather fretful. Started her on cereal. Lots of lizards/geckoes and crickets around. Goats, donkeys and camels wander along the back of our ‘land’. Very pioneer - like! 16th January 1978   To the hospital for a dental x-ray, but the power failed just as I went in. Went to get some petrol with our coupons, then on to the college. Steve got a salary advance. M B took us to get some discount beer. To Harry’s and found a refrigerated food store. Ju’s steward Bala went to market and got fruit and veg for us, his brother Bello wants to work for us. H, D and C came round for a beer in the evening. 17th January 1978   Hassan and Bello reported for work at 7.15am. Bello has references and speaks more English. S sent Hassan to market to buy garden tools with the intention of employing him in the garden. He returned with the tools, then vanished! In the afternoon we went to the D’s. Our freight arrived at 8pm, so pleased, very happy unpacking it! 18th January 1978   To the hospital early for an x-ray, rather crowded but I was dealt with quickly. Then to the nursery where we bought two large plants in earthenware pots for N1 each. Young trees are only 15k (12p) each. Back to the dentist, the tooth no longer hurts so they won’t extract unless absolutely necessary. To D and H’s for a beer in the evening – got lost and the car got stuck in the sand, we had to push it with the help of a local. 19th January 1978    The electricity and water were off most of the morning – a regular occurrence. Bello working well, washing and ironing. S was stopped by the police while driving. Got some more beer from Nino’s. Ju came round with an elderly leather worker, S bought some sandals and I bought a beautiful leather and snakeskin bag. 20th January 1978   S’s only lecture today was at 5pm- he has eight periods a week. The Ds popped round in the afternoon, J wants to make marmalade so the liquidiser should come in useful. E is sleeping better in the morning. Fixed a roof-rack on the car. Beginning to get the place a bit more home-like. 21st January 1978   Went to the D’s in the afternoon, and took the liquidiser so J could make marmalade- it is N2 a jar here! Plenty of cheap fruit. Then back there in the evening until 1.30am for a drink with the Gs and C. E was put in a bedroom and slept soundly. It is definitely getting hotter now. The gas ran out. 22nd January 1978   S went to the market with D and H, bought two woven mats for the floor and some meat. They stayed for some lunch. The water supply seems to be getting worse, off most of the time. No hot water for ages. The pressure is very low as we are at the end of the line. 23rd January 1978   Electricity, water and gas off! But S got a new gas cylinder in the afternoon and Mr Haque has promised us a 500 gallon water tank. Bello went to market for fruit and veg. The Ds came round with some marmalade. E refused to settle in the evening just as we were both very tired. 24th January 1978  Went to D and H's in the evening for a beer. E having difficulty getting to sleep. Tried her with a jar of ‘golden chicken dinner’ – she seemed to like it! We had some very good steak. Windy today (the Harmattan). Bello now does the vegetables. Feeling tired. 25th January 1978  Developed a cold, of all things! So spent a quiet day. Dried out some chillies to grind. Bello bought them instead of peppers, and they burnt me. Writing to K and P. S arranged to send money home, was only taxed N1.10 this month. 26th January 1978  S went off early to sort out some business, came back with some drink (spirits). L and daughter called round about 6pm, then D and H came for a drink. Cold still feeling rotten. Very dusty atmosphere today. Dried out some chillies- bought too many thinking they were peppers! 27th January 1978  Went to have our photos taken in a small shop for our driving licenses with D and H, then to Tradev and down to the river. In the evening we went to the State Governor’s cocktail party at Government House in honour of the Deputy High Commissioner. Very colonial and formal. 28th January 1978  S went to the clinic and saw Dr G regarding E. Got some Suta tablets for meningitis. E can have her inoculations here. Got a large jerry can for petrol. S grazed his leg. Had some people round for drinks in the evening, including someone interested in starting up sports. D and H had another attempted break-in. 29th January 1978  Went to market with D and H and bought some curtain material, also some meat. E came too and was very good. When we got back, R and S from nearby introduced themselves. The night-watchmen have not re-appeared on our verandah since I stormed out and told them to be quiet! 30th January 1978  Went shopping at Tradev and to the bank, S got his first draft to send home. Bello has had his bike stolen and wants a loan, he seems quite upset. S went to see a film at ATC, I baby-sat. Have been making curtains on the sewing machine. Got letters from A&O and S’s parents. Bought some more liquor. 31st January 1978  Quiet day at home. Borrowed some ‘Guardian Weekly’ papers to read. Water supply working well now. Curtains now up! The boy whom was meant to start work in the garden didn’t turn up. I planted some pawpaw seeds. Ground some dried chillies- worked well, and made lemon sorbet. 

1974 Sokoto map 1970s Sokoto
Our bungalow was on the ATC (now Shehu Shagari College of Education) compound, south of Sokoto off the Birnin Kebbi Road (see inset).

At the time, of course, communications were nothing like they are these days. No internet, no phone, no TV, not even a radio until we had been there a few months. We relied on a tissue-paper copy of the Guardian Weekly (sent by air mail) to let us know what was going on in the outside world. Books and magazines were shared and passed on. We would sometimes go to the Sokoto Hotel to try and get an out-of-date Sunday paper, although it was a matter of pot-luck as to whether they had one. 

The erratic behaviour of the water supply and the power supply took some getting used to. As we were out of town and near the’ end of the line’ the water supply seemed to be off more than it was on. We got used to collecting a bath-full at night, and used it during the day.  At the height of the dry season there was no water in the house at all for several days at a time, and Bello and I would have to walk with buckets to a standpipe at the other end of the compound. We were provided with a water filter, and all water for drinking had first to be boiled, then filtered, then bottled and stored in the fridge. There were no washing machines - the water pressure was too low and erratic – so all the nappies had to be hand-washed. Drying was no problem though, a line full of nappies would be bone dry after a couple of hours!     

February 1978

1st February 1978   Wrote a letter to A&O and A. Went to Dave and Helen’s in the evening for a beer. S got the driving licenses, complete with photos, they last for one year. S and Bello re-arranged the garden ready to plant the trees. There is an awful lot of rubble. 2nd February 1978  S came back with the water filter, N15 from M B. Also a second crate of beer so we have more empties now, essential to have a crate in order to ensure a supply! E is sleeping better from 6pm to 7am, no night feed. More work on the garden. 3rd February 1978   Bello has a new bicycle. Very proud and bought it himself with entrusted N60. Caught a Dafi Maciji (poisonous snake) in the house. If they have big heads and curl up, steer clear! This had both. So small too! Called a guard, who killed it with a rake. It only came in because the house had been empty for so long, probably a bit ‘bushed’. We had cocktails and groundnut soup and palm oil/beef stew. Have we only been here four weeks today - seems ages! (S). 4th February 1978   No petrol in town, the college gave us 4 gallons. No beer in town either! We visited the leather worker in his home with Ju. Bought a set of goatskin mats N7, D ordered some sandals. E looked cute in her white sunhat. Visited B and J in the evening. It was a lot warmer this evening. The hot season is starting early this year. Must get an air conditioner for E. 5th February 1978   A quiet and restful day at home, the first day the car hasn’t left the garage. Petrol is scarce at present, so maybe just as well. A myriad of seedlings are coming up where we watered the raised bed in front of the bungalow, may be weeds, but anything green is welcome. 6th February 1978   I made some stuffed tomatoes, Israeli liver balls and pawpaw fool, quite a mixture! Called at L N's at tea-time, walked and took E. They have one of the more established houses, with lots of trees and plants. S borrowed two African paperbacks from S and R, getting more into reading (no TV or internet of course!). 7th February 1978   Got petrol today!  Fairly quiet day except for visit by J and B- wanted to liquidise oranges to make marmalade. Laid down chippings on driveway. Lecturer in Islamic/Arabic studies passed by and commended us on the garden layout. The Emir of Argungu (Chairman of Governors) will address staff tomorrow. Wonder what it’s all about. Student strike last Friday perhaps – wait and see tomorrow (S).  8th February 1978   I shook hands with the Emir. He only wanted to say how welcome we were. We got 100 Neme trees, 3 Eucalyptus, and 4 Bulybong (fire trees). The tree man was very good and invited us back for more- all free!  Started to plant them today, but it will take 5 days, as the evening id the best time to plant. E had her Triple vaccination part 2, bought syringes at the chemist. She was very brave. Very listless for a few hours, had us very worried as whooping cough was included. She seems okay now (S). 9th February 1978  A quiet day. E is her old self again. In the afternoon sat playing the guitar on the verandah, R came across and asked us if we wanted a beer. Sat on their verandah for ages 3.30-6.30 talking etc. Met P R and F (Principal of school at Iluga) (S). 10th February 1978   Woke up with terrible backache, could hardly move, ricked it during the night getting into bed. It seems better now. Spent the day working at home. D and I planted some more trees, Bello in the evening. Vice-Principal of ATC popped round. I was out, D entertained. E is really communicating today! (S).  11th February 1978   No water today, very irritating. We are getting a water tank! Planted some more trees but must learn to rest as really flaked out afterwards. Went to a party across at S and R’s, loads of booze, met lots of interesting people, Germans/Canadians etc. Bello guarded E. Got back 2.30 am. danced quite a lot (S).  12th February 1978   No water until 8pm. A luxury to have a deep hot bath. We had a delicious cold drink and then a meal of stew and banana pancakes. Day spent lazing around, recovering from the party. The outside was very hot today. It’s definitely warming up. Inside the house in the evening it was 30℃ . Must remember to leave doors closed during the day. It keeps warm air out and the place cool (S). 13th February 1978  Water was on all day. Spent the morning shopping. It’s a weekly outing which is really enjoyable. Did a big shop at Tradev. Went to market, got some liqueur glasses (10k each). Got a hose so the trees had a good long drink. Bought some decorative enamel pots. Getting hotter, especially in the car (S). 14th February 1978 We have been in our house one month! Got another gas cylinder. Photographed E. Slides of Christmas ’77 arrived safely. D cooked a Swedish dish called Lok Pach. Bello is a Muslim so he will leave on Friday at 12.00 each week to pray at the mosque. The veg man called again (!) got some lemons (S). 15th February 1978  The leather worker called round with my hand-made sandals for N4, very ‘ethnic’ looking. S unwell with an upset stomach, so did not go to see the film ‘Skyjacked’ at ATC, the others did. Letter from J. Still no beer. Made some more lemon sorbet. The woodworm/termites are hard at it! 16th February 1978   S took the car in for service. D gave him a lift home. B called round to see Ju re history, but she was out. Letter from D&R. Made some ice-cream. S and R came round in the evening. Very windy today (Harmattan), Apparently a curfew in and out of Sokoto 12.00-6am exists. 17th February 1978  A quiet day. Picked up car from Mandilas. Petrol was siphoned off! Just service and number plates. Got beer from Tradev. Went for petrol, waited from 6pm-8.30pm. Got home to a meal cooled by Bello- very good Nigerian stew. He went to market in the morning as well. H cycled round worried about D - he was with me queuing for petrol. Anyway, gave them a share of the meal (S). 18th February 1978  Woke up refreshed, quiet morning. In the afternoon B, J and kids popped round. Went over to S and R’s and met Ju. Sat on the verandah drinking and chatting. Very pleasant. In the evening we had a dinner party for six (B, J, H, D). It was very good. D cooked French onion soup, Hungarian goulash, fresh fruit salad, lemon sorbet, pawpaw fool. Really good. In the afternoon an old woman shouted at S/R’s gardener about a rice bill a student had not paid. Added to the colour of the place! N and little C and R came round for E’s feed-time again! (S).  19th February 1978 Visited B and J briefly in the afternoon. Had a restful day after last night, we read for part of the day. Dee drove the car for the first time without mishap! Late she drove to B and J’s and back again. Plenty of water- unusual for a weekend. Trees are picking up a bit now, in spite of goats eating the fire trees (S). 20th February 1978  E is five months old today. Went for a picnic at 8.00am to Kware Lake, 20km north. Had a smashing time. Animal and birdlife profuse. S got a trip in a fisherman’s boat and later the fisherman produced fish from the lake. We got sun-tanned, Returned about 2.30pm, stopped to watch another group of fishermen. A woman we met on the plane visited to invite us to a party next Saturday, she also brought her baby, 4 months old. Had tea with her. Mohammed’s birthday, a public holiday (S). 21st February 1978  Woken up at 1.30am by lots of people running and shouting- it was an elopement! S did some shopping. Gin is now in town! Also got some Nivaquine (anti-malarial) for E. B and J called round in the afternoon to see some dress patterns. N and Ja came to see baby E. Bello cooked lunch- liver, chips and carrots, without being asked. Water trickled at 10pm momentarily.   22nd February 1978   Absolutely no water today. Even being paid cannot temper the dismay and frustration. Went to D and H’s to have a bath. There were troops of boys with buckets passing the house in search of the elusive stuff. The State Governor paid a flying visit to the college (early, 7.30am). Visited car spares shops, will get some tomorrow. Got beer and soft drinks from Harry’s -good old El Haji! Water came on at 11.30pm. Briefly!  (S).     23rd February 1978   D unwell with stomach upset. No water at all again. Bello cooked lunch, it was very good. Maybe the motive was him wanting to borrow an advance on his wages- his brother gets married on Saturday! Film not on at ATC today, so Bill, Josie, the kids and Dave and Helen stopped by for drinks, Water came on at 1pm. (S). 24th February 1978  Heard that S and R showed the films in their house, but did not want to disturb us as we had company! D is weak and exhausted from severe stomach pains. We still have no water. Only three students at the evening lecture, the Argungu Fishing Festival is tomorrow. Bello went to market, got some catfish. E has been good today, obviously senses that D is unwell. Went to ATC library with R and got some books. Water came back on at 8.30pm, hooray! (S). 

25th February 1978  Argungu Fishing Festival today, didn’t go as it would be too hot for E. Shopped early morning. Sat on the verandah for most of the day. R and J gave a party in the evening. Loads of beer, small select party. Got back in the early hours as E could not sleep in their cool air-conditioning! Certainly a very nice house, these company people are well looked-after. (S). 26th February 1978  Woke up in the early hours to find the house partially flooded. We had left the taps on to fill the bath and fell asleep. What a hangover! Hungover most of the day, took things easy. No hot water but we can fill the bath in the evening with cold. Went to Ju’s to practise for next Saturday’s concert of WW1 songs. Drank wine! Later she came over to our bungalow with B to play Diplomacy. Very intriguing!  Several others were expected but didn’t appear. The McDs, and MR were also at Ju’s. (S). 27th February 1978   Mail day! Two letters from D&R, two from Bs, plus Guardian Weekly and bank statement. Makes a change from no letters as last week. Made some Nigerian fish stew with catfish, surprisingly tender but D got small bones stuck in her throat. Finished the tree planting. Made bananas and caramel. S helped Ju with the Diplomacy map for the big game at ATC. 28th February 1978   No water again! Went to D and H’s for a bath. They now have a dog called Mutt. Under-fed, but will soon get well with his new masters. Plumber called by about a water tank. He will start tomorrow (though could be any time!). More lemon sorbet on the way. Arranged the remittance today (cheer up time!). (S ).

    That's the first couple of months. From now on I will focus on selected extracts.......


5th March 1978   Went swimming at Roads Nigeria pool and club at Dogondaji (60km south). You need to know someone there (TK), went with MR and the two girls, GN and two children. It was a very good day. They have a bar where you buy drinks tickets. The luxury of swimming was something to be savoured. It has rained early in Lagos, it might come earlier here, the clouds did mass for a while, obscuring the sun. It was 90℉ (32℃) for the first time inside the house at 7pm.(S).

26th March 1978   Easter Sunday. The water came on at midday, so we showered outside and filled the bath. Decided to go to Frances’s party at Illela, 90 km north and not far from the border with the Republic of Niger. At 4.45pm. It took about one and a half hours to get there, a good road and the farthest we have travelled on our own. No-one there we knew, but we quickly got chatting to people from Government College (Sokoto), including T and H from Lincoln. Had a good drink of beer and ate barbecued meat, potatoes, dips etc., then more beer! At about 9pm we had stew and rice. S rode a camel. S slept outside, Dee in the car. Left at 6.15am Monday and drove home. What a party, what an evening! (S).

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Sokoto in the mid to late 1970s was quite a cosmopolitan place. There was a lot of major infrastructure development going on at the time, with involvement in terms of expertise and funding from various international sources and different countries. New roads, a new international airport, the Bakolori Dam, University buildings, new hospitals and markets were all being designed and constructed in the 1970s. Companies with employees living and working in Sokoto included Taylor Woodrow, Norman and Dawbarn, George Stow & Co Ltd., Roads Nigeria, Kueppers and Impresit Bakolori to name just a few. We met and socialised with different nationalities - French, Italian, Dutch, German, Canadians, Lebanese and Indians as well as the British and Nigerians. There were engineers, architects, surveyors, builders, retailers, teachers, secondary and tertiary lecturers and educators. The British Council had a base in Kaduna and also operated in Sokoto. We also met a lot of CUSOs (Canadian University Service Overseas) and VSOs (Voluntary Service Overseas) who were often posted in more remote areas in Sokoto State.


As there weren't the usual social venues for expats in Sokoto it had been a tradition that on Friday evenings one of the expat families would regularly open up a 'bar', with drinks, basic food/snacks and music with a dance floor in their house and garden. When we first arrived, this was the 'Rose and Crown' run by B and M. This soon became the 'Desert Inn', run by T and R, and was very popular, people would often stay well into the early hours after a busy week. In April 1979 the name changed to Jock's Lodge, and was hosted by B&J until May 1980, The German Kueppers Club was also a firm favourite and a meeting place for expats to socialise. Later in 1979 we joined the Sokoto Club in Shinkafi Road, set in attractive gardens with resident crocodile, a real green oasis. It had a swimming pool, very popular with the children, and served delicious curry lunches on Sundays. Egg and chips and steak and chips were also firm favourites, and Star beer was available from the bar.  We were called Batures by many local Nigerians - meaning “White person” or “European” in the Hausa language, which is mainly spoken in northern Nigeria. One day in late April 1980 we went to the Club for a swim, only to find the pool had been emptied as no Batures had turned  up for the EGM - I can't say I blame them! 

Of course, there were a lot of parties too, as we got to know people. There was the infamous Halloween Party we hosted with some friends at the end of October 1978.  Some of the memorable ones were fancy dress - 'Dirty Dick's Pirate Party', a 'Swinging Sixties' party, a 'Pyjama Party' just to name a few. It was quite difficult getting hold of supplies of beer and alcohol, and many fruitless trips were made to Harry's and Nino's. With no phones or modern methods of commu is nication, there was no way of knowing if beer was in stock apart from just turning up at the shop. When expats first arrived, they tended to rely on 'inheriting' a crate or two of empties from someone who had recently left, having finished their tour of duty. Without a crate of empties to exchange for a full crate of beer, there was no way to buy beer! Luckily we 'inherited' an empties crate quite early on. 

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We had to wait over eighteen months for our first annual home leave to the UK, in July 1979. These days, most overseas employers would probably include more frequent paid leave back to the UK. Therefore for our main summer holiday break in 1978 we made a trip to Niamey, in Niger, the country bordering Nigeria to the north. We drove in convoy with some friends, via the border post at Birnin Konni, and stayed in a hotel in Niamey for a week. 


 17th July 1978  Left for Niamey at 6.30am, and went in convoy with B&J. We had to stop at the border and towns in Niger to check and complete documents (Birnin Konni). B got petrol in Dosso - we just had enough! Arrived at the Terminus Hotel to find no room - the letter had not arrived! But then we were given one with a broken window. 4,700 CFA per night (£11). Nice hotel. Plenty of beer and petrol! 18th July 1978  Shopped in Score supermarket after a French breakfast. Plentiful and various produce- apples, peaches, cream, yoghurt, ‘just like home;! Returned to spend the afternoon at the hotel pool, E loves the water. Nice surrounds, plenty of shade, white tables and chairs. All French people at the hotel. Had excellent French dinner at hotel restaurant for £13 - Dee had asparagus tips and prawn provencale, a real treat. 19th July 1978  We went to the museum and zoo (free) in the morning. Hausa villages etc., we saw artisans at work and visited the shop, some beautiful leather and silverware. Visited the large market, then Le Petit Marche- best for artefacts. Dee got a long dress, leather box, silver amulets, drum for E. Swam in the afternoon. E cut her top left (2nd) tooth (unusual order). D&H had their bag stolen, went to the Niamey equivalent of Fagin’s Den to recover it! Had pizzas at the Sahel Hotel and palm hearts. Nice bar. 

20th July 1978  Walked halfway across Pont Kennedy over the River Niger and took some interesting photos- laundering etc in the river. E cut another tooth (bottom left), Spent 11-5pm by the pool, drank beer, got sun-tanned. Bought a lovely bronze sword and red leather case from the shop in the Grand Hotel. Then had a good table d’hote meal, brochettes, ice-cream for CFA1,500. 21st July 1978  To the supermarket to buy goodies and then to the Petit Marche and haggled for artefacts- got some figurines and a pounding vessel. Swam in the afternoon, E loves her new ball. Went to La Ronier (Les Roniers) for dinner, but J was unwell. Excellent meal, nice atmosphere, all French there. Had difficulty in finding it at first, went in D&H’s car. 22nd July 1978  In the morning went to both supermarkets and bought masses of food and tinned goodies and Ricard to take home. To the Petit Marche- tie-dye skirt and top, and museum and Tuareg  pots. Have more money than we thought! Swam in the afternoon. Had a really good dinner (steak au poivre, tournadoes etc) and wine at the hotel restaurant then a drink in the bar. E now has four teeth coming at once! 23rd July 1978  Sunday. Left Niamey about 10.15am in convoy, three cars. We weren't stopped at the customs post for such a lengthy period as before. Good journey. Took photos of mesas. We saw F&R and  S&R on the road from Illela. Nice to get back with all our goodies! 24th July 1978  A and D called round in the morning, gave them gifts and made a recording for Adrian. Bello did not come to work, Bala said he had fallen off his bicycle. Lots of mail.  Lent Sarah and Richard the car, as theirs is being serviced. In the evening saw ‘Alfie’ (film) at A&O’s and met the second Secretary of the Lagos British High Commission, the Naylors were also there. Sarah and Richard babysat for us. 25th July 1978  ODA forms arrived in the mail- maybe we’re getting somewhere at last! Also photos from D&R and letters. S did some shopping. E now standing up well without holding on! Teeth still coming. Called on Liz and Howie late afternoon to take the cigarettes from Niamey, only Liz was in, had tea. Emily is now sleeping in babygros at night as it is getting cooler. College has petrol- 10 gallons. 26th July 1978  Went to A&O’s in the afternoon, and we had a go at riding Andrew, a horse being kept in the garden by A, borrowed from the Boyds and belonging to the Sultan’s son. Rushed home, then out again to the Naylors (Taylor Woodrow) to watch films- Return of the Pink Panther, Living Savannah and Midland Country. 27th July 1978  S busy in College reorganising the store. I made more yoghurt and lemon pudding. E cracked her front upper tooth on the floor, and it bled. Rained heavily last night and this morning. Lots of mossies around! Dee went to A&O’s at 5pm and had another go at riding, cantering along paths through the millet. Power off yet again this evening. 

28th July 1978  Bello went to market and got a good selection of produce. Audrey called in briefly in the morning. E tries to say ‘dog’. Dee called in on the Ricketts with E late afternoon, she had a go in a baby-walker. Went to the Desert Inn, got talking to George (German) again. Getting cooler, E now in babygros at night. 29th July 1978  Rained all night and most of the morning. Made some pizzas using olives and anchovies we got from Niamey. At 5pm, Dee went off to Audrey and Owen’s to have another go at riding. Found Brian and Pauline’s house, they have a little boy, Sam, but are leaving soon. Paul and Maggie R called for us and we went to Kueppers German club, via George’s. Stayed late (3am), had a good drink and talk, good amenities. 30th July 1978  Sunday. Rather tired after last night. Recorded message on tape for Adrian. At 12, went to A&O’s and then to the Club for beer and lunch (kidney and chips). Talked to Judith, Frances and Rema. Sat outside. At 4pm Mark came round and he and S played tennis. He stayed on for the evening meal -pizza etc and ice-cream. Power off yet again, from 7pm onwards. 31st July 1978  In the afternoon, met Audrey at the Boyds so we could ride Andrew and Jane’s horse. But someone had borrowed the horse, so we went to A&O’s, Steve had a hot bath, E sat on the horse and had fun playing with a ball. In the evening the Rs and their girls called round with a baby-walker for E, and stayed for a drink and gherkins! 1st August 1978  Rained quite heavily this morning. Sarah and Richard left okay on the Kano plane to go on leave for a month. Went to the Boyds and met Audrey, we took two horses on quite a long ride through the forest reserve, Andrew galloped! Millet is very high, In the evening we went to the Ricketts for dinner, meat fondue, with Pauline and Brian who are leaving Nigeria this week after several years here. 2nd August 1978  Still feeling tired, didn’t sleep too well. Bonnie and Richard called round in thmorning. Didn’t go riding in the afternoon as arranged. Had an early night and supper in bed.

3rd August 1978   S went into college andwent into college and called at A&O’s. William B (Director of the British Council) is coming to Sokoto. Bought a Philips 569 Radio recorder- very nice. Still feeling enervated. Had sauerkraut, baked potatoes, corn and yoghurt, and guava yoghurt in the evening. 4th August 1978  College is almost at a standstill. Met William B, who took S to the Hotel for a drink and chat about the ethos among lecturers in Sokoto. Went to Tad and Roni’s in the evening. The radio is being well used! S still suffering from hayfever. (S)/ 5th August 1978  Went to A&O’s late morning. Poor Bello went to market but forgot money. He eventually arrived back for the second time at 4.45pm (left at 11am). Bill and Josie called by in the afternoon to grind coffee. We did not take up the invitation to Roads Nigeria Club as we had a late night last night! E said ‘bye bye'. Judith left for the UK. Ramadan started, (S). 6th August 1978  Sunday. Had a relaxing day. Made guava wine. S started his book. Had A&O over in the evening from 5.30pm. Had nibbly things- caviar, biscuits, olives, crisps (from Niamey) and drinks, then a meal- quiche, potatoes and yoghurt. mange-tout, chocolate banana dessert and home-made wine. Played canasta. 7th August 1978  Dee called at the Davis’s to collect J and the kids to go to Roads Nigeria swimming in the afternoon. in the afternoon. A lot of people there we didn’t know. Finished sewing E’s dungarees. Quite a lot of mail. E’s teeth really coming on well. Rained quite heavily in the evening. 8th August 1978  Quiet day, Dee feeling sniffly. E off her food. Maggie called round to borrow the liquidiser and return a cookery book. We went to George (the German)’s for dinner and were late. He played the accordion and S played the guitar, an unusual mixture! Bello cooked here in the evening, due to Ramadan and having to eat/cook after sunset. 9th August 1978  Bonnie called round in the morning. S went to A&O’s to give D his lesson. Received a cheque for arrears of ODA to the end of July – still got a grant and August to come, tax free, yippee! At 6pm we went to the Hotel to get a Sunday paper for investment tips, but there were none. Had a Star beer each instead and bought some magazines.  Called at Peter and Helen’s and saw baby Victor. Electricity off all evening. 

10th August 1978   Went shopping in Tradev after E’s 9am nap, then on to College. E has refused solids for the past two days, maybe due to teething. S listened to cricket on the radio. A man came to fix the hot water and shower pipes, but the pressure was too low and the tank almost empty. 11th August 1978   Rained heavily and for a long time this morning, but no water in the tank or from the mains- paradoxical! Collected rainwater in buckets. Au and D called round. Made 40 pints pf Geordie beer. Called on the Ricketts in the afternoon, and they gave E a ball and some shapes. E is trying to say ‘hello, dog, dada, duck’. Went to the Desert Inn in the evening. 12th August 1978   Dee had to go to the doctor’s to get Marax for S, as breathing was difficult. Called in College early to collect mail (Paul & Karen, Adrian). Went to A&O’s at 5pm for tea and Dee had a ride on Andrew, took a slide of Dee and E on the horse! Shower works- for the first time! 13th August 1978   Sunday. In the morning went to A&O’s and then to Kware Lake. Mango site as a large tent and Tradev employees were at the jetty. Had a picnic and homemade banana champagne- had a good time. Came home, then at 6pm went to Bonnie and Richard’s for a barbecue- steak, salads and devil’s food cake, with the Davis’ and Venetia. E came too, and stayed until after 8.30, she was very good, talking to the cat. Hot water now works! 14th August 1978   Bonnie and Richard called round in the morning, then we went to the hospital clinic to see specialist for S’s asthma, but not in. To College to get the mail (letter from Barry, D&R and ODA re grant), and to the hotel bar for a drink. Dee went out at 5pm and met Audrey at Jane’s, and went on a horse ride. Got photos of E from D&R. 15th August 1978   S went to the hospital and had an x-ray. A,O&D called round in the morning. Dee picked up Josie and kids and went swimming at Roads Nigeria. E is really standing up well without having to pull herself up. Had a nice hot bath. Took a photo of E playing the guitar with S! 16th August 1978   S went to hospital again- x-ray clear, has been prescribed medicine and tablets. Dropped Dee off at A’s for coffee and met Lesley with Anthony (22 months) and David (7 months). Daniel made chocolate cracklakes. Called at the Ricketts and collected some of P’s tapes to record. 17th August 1978   Made some quiche cases and orange sticky buns to freeze. Dee went swimming at Lesley’s with A and D, had tea, then back to A&O’s for more tea. Jane S called round. S recorded more tapes. Electricity off from 7pm, on briefly at 10pm, then off all night. S ran out of tablets and could not sleep. 18th August 1978    Felt tired in the morning due to lack of sleep. D went to the doctor’s for S. Electricity came back on midday. Went to the bank and College for mail- two dresses for E from D&R, and confirmation of Scottish hotel booking. Went to the Desert Inn, but left early as S was ill. Met Mike U, a new geographer at ATC, who arrived in Sokoto yesterday. 19th August 1978   In the morning went to collect gas cylinders- gas in town! And to Tradev, then to A&O’s. Then went on to the Club and had a beer, met Mike, Frances etc, Bottled ‘Sarah’s Bitter’. In the evening went to Kuepper’s German Club, although with little money, and discovered free drink and barbecue! No English people, though A&O came later.  20th August 1978  Sunday. Went to A&O’s, then to the Club for beers and a very good curry lunch, after which we went home and slept most of the rest of the day in bed! Took a photo of E in her new dress and shoes, she looks really cute!  21st August 1978    Dee has runny nose/hay fever. Rained heavily in the afternoon. Have heard again that we may have to move. Mail- got confirmation of purchase of stocks/bonds. Electricity off again for 3 hours in the evening. Frances called round, she’s living at Judith’s, having left Illela.  22nd August 1978   Uneventful day, still feeling sneezy, but S feeling a bit better. E still not eating- refuses to be spoon-fed. She points at everyone and everything. S did more recording. Mike U called round, had tea and a drink before going to Frances for a meal. 23rd August 1978 S got some tablets for hay-fever from a chemist- none at the hospital. Went with the housing department to look at a new College site. A&D popped round briefly. Dee went swimming in the afternoon at Lesley’s, Linda was there. E is attempting to eat a little better. Mike U called round, and stayed for a drink and meal, he seemed worn out already! 24th August 1978  Went shopping in the morning. Took Mike U round to show him the ropes. Went to O&A’s pm so Dee could go riding. Lazy day and early night, things seem very quiet. (S). 25th August 1978   S went to College to do a few jobs. Dee and E went swimming at Roads Nigeria pool. Mark called by, full of his trip to the Ivory Coast, Volta and Niger. Sounds a worthwhile journey. Spent the evening listening to some of our new tapes that S recorded recently. (S)  26th August 1978 Quiet day. S listened to sport on the radio all afternoon. Couple of women who borrowed S&R’s car returned for the day and returned the car. In the evening went to Roads Nigeria but only three there so went on to Kueppers. Took Carol (VSO) and went with Mark. Stayed until 3am, played darts and table tennis. 27th August 1978 Sunday. Restful day! Dee feeling achey and tired and sore throat. Went for a walk round the new houses on ATC compound and had a look inside. S cooked supper, had an early night. E’s sixth tooth coming through. 28th August 1978  Went out in the morning to the Hotel, but no papers. E is beginning to spoon-feed herself. Mike called (back from Kano) and stayed for lunch. Electricity off again. Mark came round in the evening and played the guitar with S- Dee lay back and relaxed! 

29th August 1978 In the morning went to the Hotel again, to Harry’s for beer- no luck! and to College, had to wait for the mail. Then back to find A there (O giving a course at ATC), had a drink. Showed E the weaver bird nests. Still feeling poorly. Dee made apple tarts to freeze. Electricity off again in the evening, listened to the radio on battery. 30th August 1978 S went to College in the morning, also got some beer! Audrey called by early morning regarding the opening of souvenir shop. It rained very heavily this afternoon, the heaviest so far and loud thunder. Mike called round with some text books. Made ice-cream. Had a tin of stuffed squid for supper, candle-lit as usual.  31st August 1978  S went to College early, then to an ecology lecture at ATC with Mike. Dee made some Cornish pasties to freeze. E took one step on her own. Mike stayed for a while, waiting for Rena. She came round then we saw her car disappearing, it was Bala (Judith’s steward) “testing”! (S- you’re b----y joking, he was away with it!). Electricity off again.

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National Museum of Niger, Niamey, July 1978
At the National Museum of Niger, Niamey, July 1978.
;aundrey and washing clothes in the River Niger, Niamey 1978
Doing the laundry in the River Niger, Niamey, July 1978.


1st September 1978 S picked up a box of toys ordered from Mothercare- cost £12.30, but we had to pay N18 tax/duty. To A&O’s for coffee and then to the cultural shop where I chose a beaten brass bowl and lid for my birthday present. M and R came for a farewell drink, and M O’H and family (new lecturer) drove up. Went to B&J’s for tea/coffee and borrowed some books. Went to the Desert Inn, stayed until 3am, danced quite a bit. Met D’s brother, Alan. 3rd September 1978  Sunday. Dee’s birthday! Went to Salah at 8.30am at the Sultan’s Palace, gave Bello a lift, but it was almost over by the time we got there. A&O and D called to wish a happy birthday and a drink of guava and banana wine. Then M called for a talk and to invite us to a party. E took 3 steps. M brought B and D H and their young son- new people at ATC.  S cooked seafood pancakes.  6th September 1978 What a day! S&R arrived back from the UK with goodies- toys and pyjamas etc. B&R called round. I went to see M in Ju’s house. S&R had lunch at ours. We went shopping and took B&D to collect their new car. A&O called round- their freight has arrived at last- including a high chair, sun beds etc. In the post we got a book on England (One Man's England by W G Hoskins)  and lavender bags. We went to B&R’s in the evening for food and punch.

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16th September 1978  Went to College to get petrol for the journey, then to Mark’s to get advice on a visit to the little market to buy steak. Had some fries for lunch. Played badminton in the garden in the afternoon, Colin and Simon called round. Visited Hilary at Roads Nigeria to give her an invitation. S&R stayed for the evening and joined forces with food- pasties and ice-cream and played cards.  17th September 1978  Sunday. Left for Kano at 8am, leaving E at A&O’s complete with cot! Went on the northern route via Funtua. Got petrol, no trouble, at Kano. Arrived at 3.30pm and booked in to the Daula Hotel- modern and very nice, gardens, pool etc. Plenty of cold beer. Sat by the pool and met up with D&H. Went to the Central Hotel and booked a room for the B family. Then we went to the Palace Chinese Restaurant for a delicious meal. Got a Sunday Times and an Express (today’s), and went to bed to read and watch colour TV (a luxury!). 

18th September 1978   Had a delicious breakfast at the hotel, then went to the airport for Steve to locate the last book consignment. Went to Leventis and bought cheese, smarties and seafood cocktail. Left the hotel at 10.30 for Zaria- the last 60km was full of potholes. Saw monkeys! Lunch at the Zaria Hotel and to Kingsway Chemist to order projector. Got petrol in Minchi- just as well. Arrived back at 7.40pm and had a drink and meal at A&O’s- left E as she had gone to sleep for the night. 19th September 1978  Picked up E from Audrey’s at 8.30am. Dee was busy in the morning making chocolate crackles, ice-cream, jellies etc for E’s party. Steve came home and said we had been asked to leave the house so we went to see Acting-Principal Mr George. ATC need the house (for their own staff), Dee not keen on lecturing at ATC and they now have two men anyway. Went to B&R’s house and E saw the chickens. Audrey’s steward brought us some frying steak for N3. H & Liz have a present for E.  S&R got their baby chicks. Maggie R called round. 20th September 1978  E is one year old! Dee made her a chocolate cake, drop sugar cookies, and was busy baking in the morning. Mike called by, Steve brought D back for a lesson, lunch and to help. The party began at 4.30pm- 15 children and six adults. E sat at the table in her high chair. Lots of presents and cards. Took flash photos. A&O collected D at 6.30pm, and C from SCAS stayed on for a bit. Lots of food left and eaten by the grown-ups!

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29th September 1978   Public holiday, Bello went early to the mosque. S went to the market with S&R and C and got some frying steak and vegetables, they came back for coffee. Dee worked on fancy dress. E said ‘flower’ and ‘no’. Went to visit Mark, but he wasn’t in. Spoke to H and friends and baby Victor. Went to S&R’s in the evening. 30th September 1978   S up at 7am to play a cricket match at Government College, he got two wickets and out for a duck, good match. At 12pm we went on to S Ibegbuna’s wedding- couldn’t find the church! -and to the reception at SCAS. Breaking of kola nut etc. Left E with Bello and S came over. S felt unwell and didn’t go to the Fancy Dress party. Dee went and gave Mike a lift, went as a Flower Seller. Stayed until 4am – a good party. L won the prize.  1st October 1978  Sunday. Quiet restful day. Not too hungover! -mainly tired. S feeling a little better. S&R and B and Mike popped round. Listened to the radio, and lolled in general. E now loves putting things into things and makes animal noises. Early night. 2nd October 1978  S went to College at 7.30am, returned for breakfast. Mike and Richard called round. Some mail today- a card for E from Granny. S&R sold their car. S went to cricket practice but came back early as it was cancelled due to the death of a pupil. Dee made cookies and ice-cream. Another early night. 3rd October 1978  Dee went into town with S and did some shopping, to college and saw S’s new AVA centre and met a new couple from Lancashire. Saw Mr Haque re housing. Went to A&O’s (back from Kaduna), collected films. Bello wants N100 loan for his marriage. Called on J- horse has been stolen or lost. Went swimming at L’s, SW and kids also there. Went to Tradev, picked up D to stay the night. S went to cricket practice. Bought Matchbox cars and card for Anthony. 4th October 1978  S took D back after breakfast. Dee took E to A’s 2-year-old tea party at L’s. J and various small children were there, E enjoyed herself. Gave J a lift back. S went to S&R’s to design a goat shelter. Mike and Les called in a new red Suzuki. In the evening went to B&J’s to discuss plans for our Halloween party, and played darts on our board. 5th October 1978  Dee called on Di and then Ju in the morning. Still no news regarding a house. No beer- went to Harry’s and Tradev in the afternoon. Called on Mark, but he wasn’t in. Grant called to invite us round on Saturday for a guitar evening instead of today. S, R and Ju came round in the evening for a drink (of gin!). 6th October 1978  Dee went to J’s and drove to Roads Nigeria for a swim- they now have comfy chairs and shades, J went too. S went to cricket practice on Richard’s motorbike. J has her horse back, it had got loose. Gave S&R a lift to the Desert Inn and stayed until 2am- a lot of new people. Beer cost N1 this week.


10th October 1978  E rather fractious, took her to see S&R’s chicks. In the afternoon went to Harry’s -no beer, then to look at two houses, one 4-bed, nice but isolated and M’s reject- fortified and weird décor! Called on H and L and met J and P and 2-year old E- new at the University. Had lemon tea, E was fascinated by their chicks as well. 11th October 1978  S saw A&O at College. Went to Harry’s in the afternoon and eventually got some beer, kept waiting by the old Alhaji who charged N8. Called on B&R to pay them for the meat. Had George the German round for dinner, he brought a nice bottle of wine for us to keep, and we tried the guava wine. Dee has another cold! 12th October 1978  S busy at work, more committee meetings. Dee lazed around, very sniffy. Called at A&O’s to collect iron that O mended, had tea. E got feverish and dopey again. Gave her Calpol and Nivaquine, she went to sleep okay. We went to D&B’s for dinner with S&R, and had a good time. We ‘lurched’ back home.  13th October 1978  E is much better than she has been all week. In the afternoon we went to Bodinga market 18km away with A&O to get guinea corn. Saw an exotic fire-eater and a yogi freak- very interesting and atmospheric. Spinning cotton, carving gourds weird mushrooms for sale, lots of donkeys and camels. Went to the Desert Inn in the evening, it was crowded. S may play cricket for the State team. 14th October 1978  S had a committee meeting at College, then played cricket. D&H called round with invitations for the party and soft drink crates. We delivered some to people on the compound. B&D brought J round to stay, as there was no babysitter. We went to ‘Dirty Dick’s’ Pirate party (at K&R's). Dee went as a castaway in torn batik material. Had a good time, danced a lot. 15th October 1978  Sunday. Quiet day, feeling very tired! A&O called round, we were asleep! E walked about the length of the room, carrying the diary to give to S! Very talkative. S&R and B&R came round in the evening to watch some documentary films- ‘The Living Lakes’ and ‘Environment in the Balance’- showed them on the living room wall. 16th October 1978  S had a busy day at College. We went shopping in the morning, and had to wait one and a quarter hours in the bank. In the evening we showed the films again, mainly to the kids- Ds and Ns, R and P etc. E stayed up for one film and seemed to enjoy it. R stayed on for a drink. 

17th October 1978  S helped construct the goat shelter (S&R). Dee made cookies. B&R came round for dinner in the evening- moussaka and banana fritters and ice-cream. We played the US version of Monopoly, with US street names. E stayed up a little while. 18th October 1978  E is really walking well now! Went swimming at L’s in the afternoon, E fell in the pool! Dee went to K’s to collect plates. S built the goat shelter for S&R. Lots of visitors, E played with C and R, Si borrowed the cine films. S went to a pantomime meeting at the Ns and will help with the script. Went to see the film ‘Gawain and the Green Knight’ in the evening. 19th October 1978  L and M N came round for coffee with D and A. S heard the WAC O levels may be put forward to April due to elections next year. A called late afternoon for a drink and a chat. S went to a film at ATC on the opening up of the West, went to S&R’s afterwards. It rained in the afternoon. 20th October 1978  We went to get soft drinks at Nino’s, but the lorry hadn’t arrived. S went for cricket practice. Mike called by in his newly-acquired landrover, it broke down outside our house! P and T came and towed it away. Took E for a walk outside and to see H and V. Went to the Desert Inn, drank and danced. 21st October 1978  S went to a staff meeting regarding the putting forward of O levels and to collect soft drinks, but none yet. Mark and Grant came round for a meal, then Antonio, Greville, D&B and some others came for a guitar session and sing-song. Grev brought a crate of beer. Finished after 2.30am. 22nd October 1978  Sunday. Restful day. E saying ‘there she is’. Went to A&O’s before lunch, went to the Club for a beer, then back for a nice roast beef lunch and slept afterwards. Early night. 23rd October 1978  Went to B&J’s in the afternoon to take five more beer crates (empties). S picked up six x 24 soft drinks for the party. Les K came round in the evening to discuss pantomime songs. 24th October 1978  Dee dropped S off at College after breakfast and went on to L’s for coffee with J and M. Then to A&O’s to collect patty tins, they were away, stayed for 20 minutes and Saliha played with E. Picked up S. After lunch, Dee went shopping and left E with S, to get food for the party. Rearranged furniture in the living room. 25th October 1978  Dee made over 100 savoury bread cases for the party. Writing this on 30 October, so cannot remember much! Went to see the film ‘Blind Man’ with Ringo Starr at B&M’s.  26th October 1978  S was going to play badminton in the afternoon, but it rained. Instead we went to A&O’s. This is an exceptionally late time of year for rain, It is still humid and we still get bunged up and runny noses and need the air conditioner at night. 27th October 1978  Dee did some more baking and preparation for the party. We got more soft drinks from the man on a motorcycle, delivered them and tables to B&J’s. Went on to the Bypass restaurant -D&B’s anniversary, with S&R and Les K. Then on to the Desert Inn. Then back to Antonio’s for tea and brandy etc, until 2.30am! 28th October 1978  Party Day! Baked quiches in the morning then at 10.30 dropped E off at A&O’s and on to B&J’s to get the house ready for the Halloween party. Rested in the afternoon. The party started at 9pm and the last people left at 5.40am, we left at 4.30am. Decorated the place with black bats and spiders, pumpkin lanterns. Had punch, the beer did not run out! Plenty of dancing. Over 100 people there. Dee drove S home. 29th October 1978  Sunday. Lazy day and rather hungover and tired, having got to bed at 5am. Late afternoon went back to B&J’s to collect some things and on to A&O’s for tea and a drink. E screws and unscrews things now. Early night. 30th October 1978  Dee went into town after dropping S off at College, called at A&O’s and then to the shops to buy books for K, left E at home with Bello. Picked up S after 2pm at College. Some mail at last. Went to look at another house. At 4pm went to K’s one-year-old tea party, got a lift back with M, Mike and then A&O called round early evening. 31st October 1978  B came round in the morning, then S&R’s goat gave birth to two kids, but one died later. Went to Ju’s for a drink before lunch. Looked round a house again. Early evening we went to visit Ben and G and eventually found their house, had a beer and stayed til 8pm. Popped over to S&R’s for a drink later on. 1st November 1978  Went to A’s for the morning. S taught D then went on to College and returned at 1.30pm. I called for coffee and asked us to Dogondaji on Sunday. Went swimming at L’s in the afternoon, gave A a lift there, saw P and El. Back for a cup of tea, then home. S feeling tired and not sleeping well. Early night. 2nd November 1978  Dee made more banana wine. S had a late morning so decided D couldn’t make it to M N’s coffee morning. S saw the Alhaji regarding the house. Went to B&J’s to collect soft drinks, whisky and beer left from the party and settle up- N96 each. In the evening called on Antonio and went on to B&R’s and had something to eat. 3rd November 1978  A called in the morning for coffee. They brought round a man selling wooden figurines and we bought some- characteristic of Nigeria. Decided to make Ant’s banana wine tomorrow, took the yeast. We went to Antonio’s for dinner- enjoyed ourselves, then went on to the Desert Inn. Stu the crazy Californian is back. 4th November 1978  Dee went to look round M’s new house in the landrover. S is continuing to write his book. Went to B&J’s, then on to a Lebanese party- a general invitation. Not very many people there but had a good time. Came home at 3am. 5th November 1978  Sunday. At 1pm we left for Dogondaji in convoy. Had a swim, took Ricard and vodka piledriver in a thermos flask, and had beer there. E used her arm bands at last. A lot of people there. There was a guy and a small bonfire barbecue, beef burgers for the kids and fish and chips for the adults. Got back by about 9pm, and hour’s drive.  6th November 1978  Quiet morning. A called to leave a magazine. The Harmattan wind is really starting up now. S had a late lecture. Dee visited D&B and took E to see the chicks. The Qs called round in the evening with the two girls. Then the Stiffs, two zoologists came round for a drink and a chat. 7th November 1978  Dee played tennis in the morning with A, L and M. L’s driver looked after E and she walked around. S picked us up and went to A’s for a cold drink. In the afternoon J, P and E (2) came round for tea and a play. The Stiffs called again. In the evening we had omelette and chips with salad at S&R’s, and punch. B&R and H&Lcame also. 8th November 1978  It is now very noticeably cooler, due to the Harmattan, fan not essential. In the afternoon Dee went swimming, water was quite cool. E used her arm bands again. Dee had an early night, S went to the pantomime meeting and choreographed! 9th November 1978  S finished work early, due to the Salah. Dee made yam wine. At 5pm we went to the Sabon Gari Forest Reserve with S&R and Carol. Took some wine and biscuits. Lots of paths and trees, very pretty. Had a walk and stopped for a while, really pleasant. B&R and Grant came round for some documentary films on Eskimos and glaciers in the evening. 10th November 1978  Bello is on holiday for Salah, and wedding tomorrow. B and Patty from Illela dropped in. Went to the Hotel then to A&O’s for a pre-lunch drink. Couldn’t go out in the evening as no Bello to babysit. Instead, we had a nice meal, (crème caramel and boudoir biscuits) and George’s expensive bottle of wine! 11th November 1978  Salah Day. Got up and left at 7am to see the Salah, parked near the Sultan’s Palace and walked to the mass prayers on the hillside, then back to get a seat. Took cine films of the Sultan, Dervishes, snake-charmers, brightly decorated horses, galloping camels etc. In the evening went to D&B’s for chicken casserole, and we took ice-cream and wine. Then to our house and we showed the Eskimo films. S&R came too. Felt tired, and had an early night. 12th November 1978  Sunday. Up most of the early hours with vomiting and diarrhoea – food poisoning due to us each eating a fusty old peanut. Felt weak and shattered most of the day, consequently did nothing. Could not go on the pre-arranged picnic with B&R et al, which was a shame. 13th November 1978 S had the day off, still recovering, I called round to invite us to a barbecue. A called to grind some coffee. E developed a fever in the afternoon. Dee did the washing. Visited the R’s house and E saw the little girls. Early night. 14th November 1978  E was unwell in the morning. Dropped cups off at A’s and had to take E to the doctor and miss the coffee morning. She has a sore throat. Got Bala to babysit as Bello is still on holiday, and went to a barbecue at S&I W’s house, very enjoyable. E woke up at 9pm and Helen looked after her until we got home. 15th November 1978  E still not very well. Dee couldn’t take Di swimming as she has a bad back, Dee went swimming but didn’t take E in the pool. S is still busy writing. S babysat while Dee went to A&O’s and then to Kueppers for A’s horse stunt (N50 bet by the Germans)- she rode up the steps and into the club house! 

16th November 1978  Dee picked up A in the car and went to J’s new house for a coffee morning. Then to the clinic for a measles injection for E, but Dr George was not well. Rash appeared all over E, dashed to Farfaru clinic and measles was diagnosed. S drove to pick S up from College. A called in the afternoon. Mike and Dasch came round for a drink.

17th November 1978  In the afternoon S drove Mike to Gummi to pick up his landrover and drove back straightaway. E more herself and sleeping well. She ‘mops up’ with tissues and S’s socks! A&O called round early evening. Went to the Desert Inn and met an ILO man (UN- International Labour Organization). 18th November 1978 E is much better and the rash is nearly gone. Went to A&O’s in the morning for D’s lesson and stayed for drinks and lunch. D, B and Les came for tea and to listen to football on the radio. In the evening we called for A&O and went to Camille’s party. S felt tired as he was busy writing during the day. We introduced the ILO man (R), to A&O, he has been to Goroka (New Guinea) and other places they have been. 19th November 1978  Sunday. Quiet day. Mike U called to discuss a possible geography research project. S finished the fourth section of his book 3. Went to V&Ts’ for tea, but didn’t go in as J hasn’t had measles yet- they gave us scones to take home. Called in at a potential new house again. S went to a pantomime meeting. 20th November 1978  Ju called by thinking we were leaving as a new Asian family has been told they have been allocated our house! E is very lively and much better. S had a late lecture. Mike called to collect some petrol. E is in ‘quarantine’, so a quiet week ahead for Dee. Mark called by briefly. 21st November 1978  D’s birthday, S called by to give him a card. More estate agent’s blurb in the mail. B called by with the veg man. Dee took E for a walk, she plays well outside now, said ‘car’. S&R and B&R came over to chase a ‘rat’ (possibly) from the bedroom. Dee started making a long batik dress. 22nd November 1978  Dee and S went to market at 11am for meat and rings for dress, left E with Bello. Also went to Tradev. E is very lively, happy and eating well at last, and very talkative. In the evening we went to J&R’s new house with Mark and Grant and they played their guitars afterwards- ‘sang for their supper’! 23rd November 1978  Sockets didn’t work- took one off and found a loose wire. Dee made ice-cream and orange & pawpaw wine. S made a birthday card for Antonio. In the evening we went to Antonio’s, but he wasn’t in, so on to B&R’s for a hot rum and honey toddy, B had made a rum cake. Then back to Antonio’s. S played on an American’s guitar. 24th November 1978  E mopped up wee with Dee’s clean teashirt! Dee sewed in the morning. In the afternoon we went to T&V’s, but they weren’t in so we went to B&J’s. Came back and went to S&R’s, had rum‘n blacks.  Ju’s car was towed home by T. Mark called in, but wasn’t in the mood for guitar playing. 25th November 1978  Didn’t do much during the day, Dee finished sewing the dress. N, J et al came to see E. In the evening we went to B&J’s for a drink and then on to Antonio’s party Very well set up in the garden with coloured lights, grottoes, paved dancing areas etc. Left about 4am, S went to sleep in the car. 26th November 1978  Sunday. Spent most of the morning recovering! In the afternoon went to A&O’s and then went for a walk down to the river- saw kingfishers and other birds, very peaceful, like a beach. They came back for a drink. E is starting to screech and have temper tantrums, very annoying!  27th November 1978  Quiet day. Dee took E for a walk in the pushchair to see S, then to P’s for a coffee S had an early evening lecture. A lizard? caught fire in the oven. An early night. 28th November 1978  Di came round in the morning. The water supply is getting worse again- off outside. In the afternoon we went to an exhibition of batik and prints by Tunde at the Federal Government College. The best ones had been sold. Then went to S&I’s to give them films to take back to Kaduna, and stayed for a drink. E played with J and K. 29th November 1978  A&O called in the morning, after a sudden visit to Kaduna, brought magazines and tapes from A. Dee took Di and J to L’s for a swim, but the pool was being painted- great disappointment for J! S went to College at 6.30 to show a film, but it was all twisted up! Bello was very late for babysitting, went to Kueppers, the Qs were there but not many other people. S played darts with Antonio. 30th November 1978  S had a headache, so Dee took case etc to A&O’s to load up for their Niamey trip (then on to Paris), had some tea. [note- they were leaving Nigeria]. S had to go to College to re-show the film. We had an early night. 

1st December 1978 We left home at 7am, called at A&O’s and drove to Niamey, Niger, in their car. Arrived about 4.15pm and went straight to the bank- O’s draft for tickets hadn’t come through. Dee stopped a thief stealing A’s bag! The Grand Hotel said all the hotels were full up due to a conference, but relented and gave us rooms after a while. Had a very good dinner. They provided a cot for E, but she could climb out, she eventually went to sleep. Nice hotel and rooms. 

2nd December 1978  In the morning we went to Air Afrique to book A&O&D’s flight, then to the supermarket and Petit Marche. Didn’t spend much. Back to the hotel and it was confirmed we can stay tonight. We spent lunch and the early afternoon at the poolside, overlooking the River Niger, picturesque. Then went to the zoo and museum. We sat in the hotel gardens and drank beer and ate snacky things and snoozed. Steve took A&O&D to the airport for the 12 midnight check-in, Dee stayed at the hotel with E. Missed Lesley’s party. 3rd December 1978  Sunday. E played with a 16-month-old French boy at breakfast by the pool. We went to the Petit Marche and used the last 1,300F on a blue dress. Left Niamey at 9.30am in A&O’s car. Trouble-free journey, arrived back in Sokoto approximately 4pm. Offloaded the car at A&O’s house, and then back home. J called with tickets for the pantomime. 5th December 1978  Dee bottled the yam and date wine. I called round for a coffee. We went shopping in the afternoon, got some booze, paludrine, beer not in yet. We called on the Rs to see how P is recovering from hepatitis, M gave E a dress. In the evening we went to B&G’s- we took E and she eventually went to sleep on a mattress. We drank and S played chess with Ben. 6th December 1978  Dee went swimming at L’s in the afternoon, first time for several weeks. S rested. Mike U called round. In the evening we had S & IW, V&T for dinner (mushroom tartlets, steak in wine sauce, croquettes, spinach, stuffed tomatoes, sorbet in orange cases). V&T brought J along. Then went on to Kueppers- stayed quite late. 7th December 1978  Dee made some pineapple punch, an East African recipe, it has to ferment. I called round for a coffee. Quiet morning, S worked late, had an early night.  8th December 1978  S did some shopping. Quiet morning. H called round to ask about air fares to the UK for herself and baby. Took E for a walk to see S&R’s chicks, B came round for tea. In the evening we picked up M (as P has hepatitis) and went to the Desert Inn- they closed early as R goes to the UK tomorrow. They had a funny ‘This is Your Life’ for Ron W. Chilly outside. 9th December 1978  Restful morning, Steve slept. We went to see H&L and had tea there, L wasn’t in. Then went on to return Mark his guitar. Went to Antonio’s in the evening, met R and Ju, then went on to Camille’s friends’ party. 10th December 1978  Sunday. Went out before lunch to visit B&R and borrowed some paperbacks. Mark and B came round in the afternoon and we had Camembert and Ritz! S went to a pantomime rehearsal. Dee read ‘Two is Lonely’ by L Reid Banks. Fairly early night.11th December 1978  Dee dropped S off at work. Took E to M N’s for coffee and to discuss a children’s Christmas party. Dee went shopping at Tradev and Nadia’s, back hoe then to College to collect S, left E at home with Bello. In the afternoon called on Les, the Rs, Judith and S &R. 12th December 1978  S’s birthday, 30 years old - good grief! I called to lend us a magazine with his story in it. Dee prepared food for the evening. Had a drink at lunchtime. Borrowed glasses etc from Ju. In the evening, after pantomime rehearsal, about 25 people came round (some didn’t come), and we had punch, pizzas, salad and toasties. B made a cake. The last people left at 2.30am.13th December 1978  In the afternoon we went to Nino’s, but no beer. Then went with Di and J to L’s pool- S came for the first time and had an invigorating cold swim. E floated on her own. Another tooth (bottom) is emerging. Had tea. In the evening we went to T&V’s for drinks and a buffet- Polish, Dutch and B&R, Antonio and Grant were there. Then went on to Kueppers for an hour or so. 14th December 1978  Peaceful morning. Wrote some Christmas letters for Anton to post when he goes. Bello didn’t turn up in the evening. Had French cheese, salad, olives and crisps and went to bed early. 15th December 1978  Dee made a batch of Cornish pasties to freeze. S finished College early- last day of lectures. E has another top side tooth through. Grant called round! Went to the Desert Inn, it was a free night to start with. K, R, S, I etc ran it (R had already left for the UK). Very crowded and a jolly time was had by all. 16th December 1978  S had to go to a committee meeting at 8am. Paul called round with a type-writer. Antonio came early evening then we went to the ATC Pantomime- Cinderella. Dee took some flash photos. It was funny, and had a ‘local’ flavour. The last night, so a lot of expats. Went on to Kueppers afterwards, it was fairly quiet. S played a lot of darts. 17th December 1978  Sunday. Dee called on L O’H to ask her three to the Christmas party. Made banana loaf. Restful morning, read etc. Late afternoon T. V and Jo came round with a guitar. E and Jo played together really well, Jo wants a sister like E! 18th December 1978  Dee dropped S off at College and went to M N’s for coffee, left E with Bello. Dee did the shopping and had the tyres blown up. Back to College- bad news regarding the house – we must be out by the 31st. Went to see the Alhaji regarding NEPA connecting the new house, may have to dashi. S saw some terrible houses. Went to Di&B’s in the evening to discuss Christmas. We drank Pernod and had a really good sing-song- ‘Oh Sir Jasper’ etc. Left at 2.30am. 19th December 1978  Dee bottled the orange and pawpaw wine. Robert C called at lunchtime to get information on Niamey and to take our hotel booking. Had a late lunch. Went to Ju’s birthday tea. In the evening we went to George’s leaving do at Kueppers – a German wine sampling. 20th December 1978  We went to try and get some beer- none in, then to Tradev. Then to V and J’s for coffee and brandy. Borrowed some cookery books. Di called by, having typed out menus for Christmas day. Slept in the afternoon. We called on Les, but he wasn’t in, called on the Rs. Cooked stuffed pancakes. Quiet evening in. 21st December 1978  S went to College but couldn’t get anything done regarding the house. Went into town in the afternoon, still no beer. Went to Tradev and got some cheese- the first time for months! and Pernod. Called on B&J and collected the dart board. We went to the Rs and saw the film ‘The Mackintosh Man’ in their garden. 

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Christmas 1978 in Sokoto

22nd December 1978  Our fifth Wedding Anniversary. S went to College, but it was shut. We left E with Bello and went to market and got a Hausa blanket for the wall, onions and pineapple and looked at shoes. Still no beer at Nino’s. We went to the Hotel and actually had a beer each! Called at the ATC library and saw S.  Richard came round. Went to the Desert Inn and had a Christmas buffet, but mixed Pernod and beer, and had to leave early about 12 midnight/  23rd December 1978  Went into town in the morning to get flour, gas, looked everywhere for eggs but none available! We took E to Dr George’s as she was constipated and dopey, but she recovered quickly. We went to the children’s Christmas party at the N’s (Taylor Woodrow), Di drove us. A successful do- presents, Father Christmas, film etc. Saw Raquel W film at the N’s at 8pm, then went on to Kueppers and played darts, left at almost 3am.  24th December 1978  Sunday. Quiet day spent mooching round. Dee made pavlovas for the Christmas Day meal. B called round with presents for E. In the evening we went to Rudi, C and S’s super new house for a barbecue, drinks and dancing- really good. We cancelled our ‘do’, though B&R et al turned up.

25th December 1978  Christmas Day. We took pineapple pavlovas, ice-cream, onion soup and wine to Antonio’s, then to 

B&R’s for a drink and opening of Christmas presents. Back to Antonio’s for a huge Christmas lunch outside in the garden. Then showed a film. Back home at 8pm, slept for an hour, then to K and R’s house until 3.30am for dancing and games- most enjoyable.

26th December 1978  At midday we called at Antonio’s, then A&O’s former house briefly (now empty). Then on to the Stow (water engineering company) swimming pool for ‘leftovers’ and beer by the pool - swimming and a general get-together. In the evening we went to D and B’s for dinner. Dee left early as feeling so tired. Met D and H II (the second!) – the Cs. for the first time. 27th December 1978  Did some shopping in the morning. The meters are now fixed in the new house. Dee has a cold. Quiet day, Dee mainly reading ‘The Shining’ by Stephen King. We showed a short film- ‘Portrait of a People’ to ourselves, using the College projector. Early night.  28th December 1978  S went into College, but the rent has still not been assessed. We then went in again for the mail, then to B&M’s to collect a Chris Bonington film. Went in again to the Hotel on a fruitless expedition for beer and papers. Dee in a bad mood! S cooked the evening meal and showed the Chris Bonington film.  29th December 1978  S went in early, no news about the house. We took Bello to market via the new house to show him. On to College again, still no news. The other family is expecting to move in, so we must be out by the 31st! We went to the Desert Inn in the evening, it was quiet as a lot of people are away. L and P left yesterday.  

30th December 1978  Traumatic day! Dee went to Nino’s and managed to get TWO crates of beer!, drove back to collect second empties. Then to College and saw the HEO and Mr Haque, still no joy regarding the house, but we may move to Dr Hashmin’s temporarily. We went to look round- the Q’s had the key. Then went to the Naylors to deliver the projector to show ‘Tom Sawyer’ for the kids. Back to College- no message, then to Mr Haque’s house- the original house is now ours! Back to tell the Querschis. Quiet evening in with beer, shrimps etc. Wow and phew! (S) 

New Year's Eve, 31st December 1978  We went to the new house in the morning and swept through, sorted keys, took over plants and some belongings. Had Gulder beer and a ploughman’s snack lunch. Called on D&B and had a Pernod, they have been away. A big New Year’s Eve party held at J&I's – a lovely house next to R&J’s house, Some merry Scottish reels! Food, then soup at 4am. Left at 5am. Wow! The end of a full year’s living in every way.

 

1979

1st January 1979  Had just over 2 hours sleep, having got in from the New Year’s Eve party at 5am. Felt tired and fragile! S&I called with two bags of cement for the house. Sam called to find out if we can move to the new house. We took more belongings to the new house, and called on S&I to thank them, then back to the house for some cleaning. Then back home and did more packing. Seems strange to be moving again.  2nd January 1979  The second great move! We moved in a few hours. Typical move, organised chaos! The house (in Secretariat Road) is very good and E seems to like it. Dee was very tired. S went to Mr and Mrs H’s cocktail party. Joy was short-lived. Mr H died of a heart attack at approximately 8.45pm. No words can express our sorrow. Such irony, only occurs to truly great men. May he rest in the peace he deserves. (S)     3rd January 1979  S had to go to an early staff meeting, the College is closed until next week as a mark of respect. We went into town and did some shopping, bought hose pipe, bulb holders, flexes for hanging lights, and to the nursery for some shrubs and trees. Dee planted some in the front trough. Steve fixed the lights, wall hangings, and Bello cleared his quarters. In the evening had Pernod and wine and Gloucester pie, went for a short walk, sat outside, early to bed.4th January 1979  Sam  (Steve’s head of department) moved in next door. Dee continued cleaning putty etc off windows (new house). Steve went to a meeting. I called by briefly. Went and collected breeze blocks for the stereo unit, Steve fixed it up. Planted some trees/shrubs out in the back walled garden. S did some levelling. The carpenter called with curtain wires etc. Electricity was off part of the day. Another early night, 5th January 1979  We continued jobs around the house, gradually getting organised. Bello tried to get some fence posts, but they were too expensive. Went to the Desert Inn, some people stayed until after 4am, S left before D, Dee got a lift home 1.30/2am. 6th January 1979  Went into town, took Bello to market to enquire about fence posts. We looked for another piece of curtain material. Dee bough two much-needed pairs of sandals. Bernie called for tea, Di is recovering from last night! We had steak and salad before going to Roger and Judith’s Swinging Sixties party- S went as Eric Clapton and Dee as Clapton’s groupie circa 1966 in mini-dress and pigtails. A raucous time was had by all! 

7th January 1979  Sunday. Quiet day spent recovering from the party, didn’t do much round the house. The Querschis called in the evening, but we put them off as we were so tired and about to go to bed. Early night. 8th January 1979  S’s first day of term. The carpenter came and built and put up shelves in the kitchen and pantry. Dee felt tired as she had toothache last night. Dee planted some more seeds and E helped. I W called round with J and K. Early night. 9th January 1979  Dee and S went into town in the morning, shopping. S then went into College. Dee put up shelf lining paper and cooked toad-in-the-hole for lunch. Quiet afternoon. Gave our Egyptian friend a lift into town. Posted letter to A&O. 10th January 1979  Dee worked hard cleaning the toilet! There was a power surge, which broke our tape-recorder- blast NEPA! In the afternoon went to the Stow pool, but there was no water. Went on to ATC to see Sarah & Richard, Bernie & Di, and had tea. Met Howie and Liz. In the evening went to the Ife Ome Hotel to meet them, but they weren’t there so went on to Kueppers- actually played table tennis, also darts, Sarah & Richard and Di turned up later. 11th January 1979  The power is still on phases, the radio-recorder burnt out this afternoon. I called in the morning for a coffee. S gave Bernice a lift back. Dee went to the Ricketts to drop off both recorders for Paul to have a look at, then called on Sara/h and Adrian to invite them to dinner. Steve went to the hospital to sit with Judith for 6-9 shift- sponging down etc after an operation for a twisted bowel, she has been on drips and sedatives. 12th January 1979  Dee took Bello in the car to try and get eggs from Farfaru, they don’t seem to like selling to Batures. E is getting more talkative- says ‘baby, ‘shoe’ ‘ball’ ‘good girl’ etc. She keeps wanting biscuits! Power was high all day. Mike U returned new saucepan. Went to the Desert Inn in the evening, we were given an invitation for a barbecue next Saturday. 13th January 1979  S went into College and came back with a cassette recorder we can borrow until ours is mended. Went to ATC to see Paul regarding the recorders, not in so we went to Sarah & Richard’s instead. Saw Mike. Maureen and Bob’s car got stuck in the sand. In the evening we went to Kueppers, queued 5 minutes for petrol beforehand. Very quiet as most people were at Jaap’s birthday do. 14th January 1979  Sunday. Lazy morning. The power is still fluctuating. NEPA came in the evening and it was okay from then on- a fault at the sub-station. In the afternoon went swimming at the George Stow pool, very enjoyable, E had a great time. Dee dug holes round the shrubs at the back, they seem to be dying off. S collected tape from Paul. Early night. 15th January 1979  We constructed a temporary fence from thorn and wire to keep goats and people from cutting across- hope the Alhaji puts up a proper one soon! The water was off from lunchtime. Went to Tradev in the afternoon. Steve had an evening lecture, not feeling well. 16th January 1979  S didn’t go into College until late as he was feeling unwell. Men delivered fencing and cement for our fence! In the afternoon we called on Di and Bernie, the Ricketts, Jaap and Ina to collect Tupperware, Mark, Liz & Howie, Grant. Arranged a guitar evening for Friday as Tad is away so no Desert Inn. In the evening we showed documentary films in our house to Bill & Josie, the Beckwiths and Sam & Bernice. 17th January 1979  Dee took S into College and then tried for beer at Nino’s and Harry’s, but not in yet. Bought some spirits at Tradev instead. Collected S. The men are putting fence posts up around the house- great. Had S & A and R & J round for dinner- salmon pancakes, steak marengo, banana fritters and ice-cream. Went on to Kueppers, but it was quiet so didn’t stay long. 18th January 1979  The men finished erecting the fence- much better now. E is getting much more vocal now, saying ‘baby’,’ biccy’ ‘flower’, ‘shoe’, ‘theresheis’, ‘teeth’ etc.! Quiet evening in and an early night. 19th January 1979  The men came to do wiring for air conditioner. IW called by, back from Kaduna with some gin! In the afternoon we called on Sarah & Richard, Grant, Anita & Gary, Mark, Jan & Penny (E played with El) re tonight. Had a guitar evening but not many turned up, shame as we had plenty of punch etc., we got smashed! Had the do outside in the walled garden Steve had built little benches in the garden - Steve and Dee’s Acoustic Circus. Roger had the Desert Inn at his garage.  20th January 1979  Rather hungover this morning! Men came and fitted in the air conditioner. Dee made collage for E’s room. Di & Bernie and Sarah & Richard came round for tea and finished off the punch. Sat outside. Chris’s barbecue do was postponed so a quiet evening in as have lost Kueppers ticket.  21st January 1979  Sunday. Rudely awoken at 8am by men arriving to re-surface the kitchen floor- we had to move all the equipment out so they could cement it! We raked and cleared rubble from the front garden. In the afternoon we went swimming at A & S’s – now private on Sundays. Very enjoyable. Steve played badminton. Mike U called and took us to Ife Ome Hotel for a beer. Came home, and S cooked mince curry, yams and rice. Mike showed us his slides and Grant called round late evening. 22nd January 1979  S and Dee went into town, left E with Bello. Got extra hose, glasses, and flip-flops from the market. Went to Tradev, and the Forestry and got 15 free trees and 48 large privet hedge plants. Went to the hotel for a drink, met Sue. Then planted the hedge and most of the trees- E ‘helped’. Hard work! Stu called and offered to sell our sewing machine for a commission. 

23rd January 1979  Quiet day. Stu called- he has had one offer for the sewing machine. We planted some more trees and shrubs, busy watering. E played with the neighbour’s girl. She is getting another front bottom tooth. Another early night, feeling very tired these days. 24th January 1979  Made some cookies. Went swimming in the afternoon- not many people there, the water was freezing! Then went on to Howie & Liz’s to collect some seeds from their garden, and had some tea. Had another early night. 25th January 1979  Dee raked out a semi-circle flower bed. Ian called to say there was no Desert Inn this week, if we held it we would have to buy the beer! Dee prepared seeds. S put in a sewer outlet- the toilets no longer smell! Mike U and Pam called round, he wants to stay tomorrow. Mark called round, asked him round for a guitar session tomorrow. 26th January 1979  Steve returned mid-morning -Brittain had told him a telex received in Kaduna- the Bishops are not returning to Sokoto! Went to the doctors and hospital re a pregnancy test. Went to A&O’s (former) house and met Robert C and told him what’s happened. Took a petrol can and S topped up and returned to get beer – it was water! So the car broke down. A friend passing by brought a mechanic. In the evening Grant, Martin, Mark, Sarah, Stu and Gomita came round for a guitar session- they left at 3am. 27th January 1979  S serviced the car in the morning, the jack gave way. Dave came round and gave a hand. Early morning took specimens to the hospital lab, returned at 12.30- test is positive! Hooray! Baby is expected on 9 September ’79. Went to the Hotel for a celebratory beer. S made stuffed pancakes for lunch. In the evening went to Camille’s Drag party at Rudi’s house. Lovely food, good party though the music system broke down but was repaired. 28th January 1979  Sunday. Very restful and quiet day, slept most of the morning. All watches had stopped so we had no sense of time. Watered the garden. No visitors. E is really into saying ‘Bye-bye’ and waving. Early night. 

29th January 1979  Went shopping at Tradev in the afternoon, saw Pathma there. Can’t remember much else of what else happened as I’m writing this on Thursday. 30th January 1979   S got a lift into College late morning from Sam due to petrol shortage. Put up wires in front of the house for creepers to climb up. A trader called with etched gourds and a wall hanging. Went to S and I W’s for dinner, S & A and J and Peter were there, sat outside in the courtyard. 31st January 1979  Still no petrol in town, S is getting a lift in with Sam. Plenty of beer, but no transport to fetch it- typical! We have about a gallon in the car but don’t want to use it up. Mike U called, walking. Dee is reading ‘Salem’s Lot’. S walked up to see Grant. Early night.


....to be continued.......



3rd March 1979  Got up early and left at 7am for the Argungu Fishing Festival. We were lucky in getting some good front seats in the N5 stand (cheapest), and got some good photos. E was no trouble. We were most impressed. Rested in the afternoon. Robert (Dutch) and wife called, they may go to the UK to study and work, gave Jan’s address. We went to a pyjama party at M&L’s house - curry and poppadoms to eat. Steve wore a dressing gown over jeans! 4th March 1979  Sunday. Robert C. dropped off the keys to A&O’s former house. We went there late morning to sort out some more things. Came back and read old Private Eye and Time magazines in the afternoon. CB called to say the British Council rep will arrive on Tuesday to pack up A&O’s things. 5th March 1979  Steve had no lectures, due to a student strike. Went shopping, left E with Bello. There is bacon in the shops for the first time since before Christmas. Also Youngs cod fillets. Good mail- four tapes from Adrian, letters from A&O and D&R with details of car hired for the summer.  We changed round E’s and our bedroom, ours with the a/c in the front as it is getting hotter now. 6th March 1979  We went to the Hotel at 8am to meet the British Council rep- he wasn’t at the house. Supervised some packing, a lot to do! We went back again after E went down for her nap. CB called by. S went to College- heard that leave may be cut and car allowance cut altogether- great (!). S went to an emergency staff meeting at 5.30pm. SMG closed the college until 19th March. An early night, with the Sunday Express, Welsh rarebit and bacon in bed. 7th March 1979  Dee did some baking, wrote a letter to A&O. Went swimming at S&A’s. E saw June’s baby. CB called, and S went to his house re the British Council. Mike U called for tea then we went to the Impresit houses next door and had beer with Alex et al. Steve went to the Ife Ome (now Ifeoma?) for a beer for an hour in the evening. 8th March 1979 Dee took E to Audrey’s nursery school/playgroup but there was no-one there as German measles and mumps are going round. Went into town and to A&O’s former house for a last look round. We went to the Hotel for a beer- only 90k now! Bought the 1978 edition of ‘Everywoman’ (just in). Planted lilies and two pots. Early night. 9th March 1979  S got beer from Tradev. Had a ploughman’s lunch. The Rs called round for tea and to borrow a book. Grant called round to borrow pins. Steve took a photo of E ‘drinking’ from a pint mug of beer! We went to the Desert Inn, held at A&S’s house, stayed quite late.  


Continued on next page (March 1979 to July 1980.....)


Dee Murray and Fulani goats and zebu cattle behind the bungalow, Sokoto, seeking grazing

May 1978. Fulani herdsmen would regularly pass our bungalow on the ATC compound with their goats and zebu cattle, seeking grazing at the end of the dry season. There were no fences or boundary to the garden (except a line of stones), and the goats would often eat and nibble at the shrubs and trees we planted out. They would even come up to the verandah and nibble our potted and containerised plants! 

Kware Lake, Sokoto, donkeys
                    Picnic at Kware Lake, north of Sokoto, 11 June 1978


Border checkpoint at Birnin Konni on the Nigerian-Niger border
Filling out paperwork at the border checkpoint, Birnin Konni on the Nigerian-Niger border, 1 December 1978


Argungu Fishing Festival on the Mata Fadan River, Kebbi, Sokoto State, 3 March 1979
Argungu fishing festival 3 March 1979 Sokoto
Argungu fishing festival 3 March 1979 Sokoto

Argungu Fishing Festival on the Mata Fadan River, Kebbi, 3 March 1979

Haboob or dust storm, Sokoto
Haboob or dust storm, Sokoto

Dust storms or Haboobs were regular occurrences in the dry season. This tree was just behind our bungalow on the Advanced Teachers College (ATC) compound, Sokoto. The photos were taken just minutes apart. The same tree and scene is shown below in the short rainy season, demonstrating how quickly plants and crops can grow.

© Copyright Seventies Diary-Sokoto Days. Photographs and text by Dee Murray, all rights reserved. 

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